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Wheels & Tires

Lil4X

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As a general rule, larger diameter tires with a narrow footprint have less rolling resistance. That's why you don't see Mud-Grips on a bicycle. At cruising speed the narrower tire also delivers superior aerodynamics too. Now there are limits to this rule, as narrow tires don't often have a lot of load capacity, but if you think about it, at well under a ton fully fueled and loaded, your Elio isn't going to require a big load rating.

Now while I like the look of big wide tires, they come with a lot of downsides that make them a poor choice for an economical urban and freeway commuter. As any engineer will tell you, you don't tinker with one parameter without having to readjust every other - at some point, everything's a compromise.

I seem to remember an interview with Colin Chapman with C/D Magazine back in the '60's or early '70's in which he was asked what would be the ideal sports car. The man who developed the Lotus F1 cars, the Super 7 (now Caterham), the Elan, the Elise, and dozens of other small, lightweight, high-performance vehicles - whose credo was "simplify and add lightness", and who had once opined that the ideal racing car would fall to pieces as it crossed the finish line (otherwise it was too heavy) - thought about it for a moment. His ideal car would be very much like a motorized bicycle, perhaps with more than two wheels, but low, streamlined, and as simple and reliable as could be made. It would be a 1+1, with a small trunk, in other words, an Elio. Who knew?
 

HeR3tic

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To my knowledge Cooper dunt make Mcycle tires.

As to the mention of no spare tire...Id imagined it woodnt have such. Seems as though some car manufacturers are eliminating the spare (undoubtedly increased profit taking) and providing a can of Viagra (Fix-A-Flat) instead. Might I recommend, as though it hasnt already been suggested, Stop-N-Go tire repair kits. A kit containing mushroom shaped rubber plugs, several small CO2 canisters (air gun variety) and the necessary small tools. Very compact and smaller than a can of Fix-A-Flat. http://www.stopngo.com/pocket-tire-plugger-plus-co2-inflation/ I suppose youd need the valve stems inward on the front for ease of access.
 
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HeR3tic

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...The front tires on the other hand will need to be rotated side to side, sounds simple enough. Unfortunately it's not. Modern radial tires are directional in nature which means once they're run in one direction they should always run in that direction. Most have arrows on the sidewall to assure this. The Elio front tires will need to be removed from the rim, switched side to side, remounted and rebalanced...
You are correct with "omni-directional" tires. However, there are far more "modern" radial tires that are not omni-directional. The omni-directional tires are of benefit for maximum water displacement and surely would be beneficial on the rear of the Elio for stability under hydroplaning conditions. Of course they would be beneficial on the front as well for the same reason, however not mandatory unless Elio warranty sez so.

As for balancing, might I suggest: http://www.innovativebalancing.com/index.php Ive used these dyna-beads in the tires of a Triumph Rocket III, and a K1500 Silverado with no auxillary lead weights, at all. Permanent balancing and rebalancing day in and day out = smooth as glass performance at all speeds.
 

JEBar

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As for balancing, might I suggest: http://www.innovativebalancing.com/index.php Ive used these dyna-beads in the tires of a Triumph Rocket III, and a K1500 Silverado with no auxillary lead weights, at all. Permanent balancing and rebalancing day in and day out = smooth as glass performance at all speeds.

the beads will work and are superior to using lead weights .... using the same concept, I've found that using KTB's Tire Balancing Fluid ==> http://ktbproducts.com/id3.html <== has some major advantages over beads .... it lubes the inside of the tires and helps prevent dry rot that you can't see forming, it doesn't clump when exposed to moisture/humidity, it helps prevent the inside of the rim from rusting .... I use it in the 22.5's on our Sportchassis, the 16's on our camper, the 17's on our truck, the 10's on a couple of our trailers and it performs as advertised

Jim
 

Geordie97

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It would be silly to use motorcycle tires. They are designed with stiffer sidewalls for leaning in turns and since the Elio doesn't lean, there would be no reason to use the more expensive motorcycle tires when they can use car tires that are much less expensive.
 

HeR3tic

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I surely will check out the KTB product but short of digging through their pages I wonder whether you may have experienced a nitrogen filled tire may affect the composition of balancing fluid, a chemical change?

I might add that the beads are recoverable (not without a concerted effort in doing so) and may be reapplied into the next set of tires.

Another point of inquiry, it is my poorly educated understanding that ozone is the #1 cause for dry rot. And within the engine compartment and exposure thereto is an increased level of ozone build-up from electrical arc generating components? Insofar as the Elio tires are external I make the leap towards reduced ozone exposure. Second to that, I hope to wear the tread off B4 the dreaded dry rot sets in.

As for a KTB product mixing with Viagra :p (Fix a Flat), again Ive not investigated the properties of KTB, might I suppose it could be multi-purposed??? That wud be a good thing!

But after a short flight to their website, apparently this is not the case. One product for one purpose or the other but not simultaneously serving both purposes.
Dyna-Beads balancing and Stop & Go tire repair kit will be my choice. Yes it may be true that moisture may pool inside the tire briefly under cold condensing conditions; but upon a short warm-up cycle the air density will expand and poof, no clumping.

Which brings up a question in my pointed tin foil hat covered mind, when is the best time of the year to change out tires? Of course I woodnt wait til a dry frigid February day to fill up a low pressure tire, but a hot humid August day might be reconsidered. Although, a nitrogen fill would be optimal anytime which believed to solve the pressure loss and rust issues altogether.

Air pressure check schedule: May, September, January; Quarterly as ambient air leak down at a rate of ~ 1-1.5 # / month. May is usually at end of rainy season. September usually brings first cooler dry air and January is likewise dense dry air period, absent the snow.
 
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DWR

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I surely will check out the KTB product but short of digging through their pages I wonder whether you may have experienced a nitrogen filled tire may affect the composition of balancing fluid, a chemical change?

I might add that the beads are recoverable (not without a concerted effort in doing so) and may be reapplied into the next set of tires.

Another point of inquiry, it is my poorly educated understanding that ozone is the #1 cause for dry rot. And within the engine compartment and exposure thereto is an increased level of ozone build-up from electrical arc generating components? Insofar as the Elio tires are external I make the leap towards reduced ozone exposure. Second to that, I hope to wear the tread off B4 the dreaded dry rot sets in.

As for a KTB product mixing with Viagra :p (Fix a Flat), again Ive not investigated the properties of KTB, might I suppose it could be multi-purposed??? That wud be a good thing!

But after a short flight to their website, apparently this is not the case. One product for one purpose or the other but not simultaneously serving both purposes.
Dyna-Beads balancing and Stop & Go tire repair kit will be my choice. Yes it may be true that moisture may pool inside the tire briefly under cold condensing conditions; but upon a short warm-up cycle the air density will expand and poof, no clumping.

Which brings up a question in my pointed tin foil hat covered mind, when is the best time of the year to change out tires? Of course I woodnt wait til a dry frigid February day to fill up a low pressure tire, but a hot humid August day might be reconsidered. Although, a nitrogen fill would be optimal anytime which believed to solve the pressure loss and rust issues altogether.

Air pressure check schedule: May, September, January; Quarterly as ambient air leak down at a rate of ~ 1-1.5 # / month. May is usually at end of rainy season. September usually brings first cooler dry air and January is likewise dense dry air period, absent the snow.
Welcome from East TN HeR3tic! Hope you enjoy this forum as much as the rest of us. I just wanted to make you aware of this product. This is what I plan to use since it plugs punctures, and keeps youe tires perfectly balanced.:)

http://www.ride-on.com/
 

wheaters

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I surely will check out the KTB product but short of digging through their pages I wonder whether you may have experienced a nitrogen filled tire may affect the composition of balancing fluid, a chemical change?

I might add that the beads are recoverable (not without a concerted effort in doing so) and may be reapplied into the next set of tires.

Another point of inquiry, it is my poorly educated understanding that ozone is the #1 cause for dry rot. And within the engine compartment and exposure thereto is an increased level of ozone build-up from electrical arc generating components? Insofar as the Elio tires are external I make the leap towards reduced ozone exposure. Second to that, I hope to wear the tread off B4 the dreaded dry rot sets in.

As for a KTB product mixing with Viagra :p (Fix a Flat), again Ive not investigated the properties of KTB, might I suppose it could be multi-purposed??? That wud be a good thing!

But after a short flight to their website, apparently this is not the case. One product for one purpose or the other but not simultaneously serving both purposes.
Dyna-Beads balancing and Stop & Go tire repair kit will be my choice. Yes it may be true that moisture may pool inside the tire briefly under cold condensing conditions; but upon a short warm-up cycle the air density will expand and poof, no clumping.

Which brings up a question in my pointed tin foil hat covered mind, when is the best time of the year to change out tires? Of course I woodnt wait til a dry frigid February day to fill up a low pressure tire, but a hot humid August day might be reconsidered. Although, a nitrogen fill would be optimal anytime which believed to solve the pressure loss and rust issues altogether.

Air pressure check schedule: May, September, January; Quarterly as ambient air leak down at a rate of ~ 1-1.5 # / month. May is usually at end of rainy season. September usually brings first cooler dry air and January is likewise dense dry air period, absent the snow.

I wouldn't have thought that nitrogen filling would cause a chemical change. It's commonly done with aircraft tyres and fresh air consists of 78% nitrogen. I think the advantage is the removal of the 20% of oxygen normally present.
 

NSTG8R

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Nitrogen is an inert gas (non-reactive), so it shouldn't have any reaction with/to the rubber of the tire. Aviation uses "dry-pumped nitrogen" in their tires and pneumatic systems (canopy actuator) to keep the moisture (as you have from regular compressed air) from condensing, and freezing inside the tire at high altitudes, which would throw the tire out of balance when they descended and landed. Depending on where you live, you'd be surprised on just how much water vapor there is in the air. We've got water separators on our air lines here at work, and still need to oil our air tools every day or they'll rust, and lock up on you. Doing HVAC work, the 98% gas furnaces would dump 8 - 10 gallons of condensation 'per day' into the floor drain...and that was in Denver, CO. Probably at least triple that out here in MO.

As for dry rot. Ozone for sure, and I'm thinking UV rays have something to do with it also.
 
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