84mpg
Elio Addict
Perfect! Like that shape the best!
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My Elio Alternate Project Is Underway.
- Thread starter Mark BEX
- Start date
I struck some good news today.
Some of you may remember that I had a difference in spline size for the wheel hub that I was annoyed with myself because I didn't see it at first because they were so close, and I wasted some time.
At that time, I wanted to use my engine and gearbox, CV shafts, but matched to different steering knuckles and wheel hubs. The wheel hubs of course have the all important drive spline.
I revisited that today looking for solutions, and pulled the outer CV joints apart of both mine and those previous ones, and to my delight, the steel balls were identical size in both CV joints. What this meant was that there was a good chance that I could use the inner race from my outer CV to suit my CV shaft spline, but use the outer race (housing) to suit the other wheel hub/steering knuckle.
It worked! I was quite pleased, though it's more work for me now to adapt the new steering knuckles, which may present future problems in it's self. I am cautious though because there may be a difference in different CV manufacturer's dimensions, especially the steel balls and cage, so I may have to be quite selective on which manufacturer's CVs I buy for matching. Late today I went and bought 2 new CV outer joints, and was quite pleased that they were different manufacturers to see if there are differences, so will know more tomorrow.
Why am I doing this?
Because the steering knuckles I have currently, need the adapters I made sometime ago to enable me to position the suspension struts where I wanted them, but they force the strut tops to be too low on the frame, which makes the car too high. You can see the struts sitting high on top of the steering knuckle (red arrow).
If I raise the strut tops up higher to lower the car, then I am likely going to have bodywork clearance issues, and as well, it's always best with a reverse trike to keep the weight as low as possible for improved center of gravity, to improve stability.
The new steering knuckles should allow me to lower the strut mountings on the steering knuckle, and allow me to lower the car by 75 to 100mm/3 to 4" and adjust up or down from there.
Some of you may remember that I had a difference in spline size for the wheel hub that I was annoyed with myself because I didn't see it at first because they were so close, and I wasted some time.
At that time, I wanted to use my engine and gearbox, CV shafts, but matched to different steering knuckles and wheel hubs. The wheel hubs of course have the all important drive spline.
I revisited that today looking for solutions, and pulled the outer CV joints apart of both mine and those previous ones, and to my delight, the steel balls were identical size in both CV joints. What this meant was that there was a good chance that I could use the inner race from my outer CV to suit my CV shaft spline, but use the outer race (housing) to suit the other wheel hub/steering knuckle.
It worked! I was quite pleased, though it's more work for me now to adapt the new steering knuckles, which may present future problems in it's self. I am cautious though because there may be a difference in different CV manufacturer's dimensions, especially the steel balls and cage, so I may have to be quite selective on which manufacturer's CVs I buy for matching. Late today I went and bought 2 new CV outer joints, and was quite pleased that they were different manufacturers to see if there are differences, so will know more tomorrow.
Why am I doing this?
Because the steering knuckles I have currently, need the adapters I made sometime ago to enable me to position the suspension struts where I wanted them, but they force the strut tops to be too low on the frame, which makes the car too high. You can see the struts sitting high on top of the steering knuckle (red arrow).
If I raise the strut tops up higher to lower the car, then I am likely going to have bodywork clearance issues, and as well, it's always best with a reverse trike to keep the weight as low as possible for improved center of gravity, to improve stability.
The new steering knuckles should allow me to lower the strut mountings on the steering knuckle, and allow me to lower the car by 75 to 100mm/3 to 4" and adjust up or down from there.
84mpg
Elio Addict
"and allow me to lower the car by 75 to 100mm/3 to 4".
Like the sound of this! Lower is better... my old knees will just have to suck it up.
Like the sound of this! Lower is better... my old knees will just have to suck it up.
well, all righty then .... sure enjoyed reading all of Mark's post above .... as to what I understand, lowering the car by 3 or 4" pretty well sums it up .... no further info needed for me ..
well, all righty then .... sure enjoyed reading all of Mark's post above .... as to what I understand, lowering the car by 3 or 4" pretty well sums it up .... no further info needed for me ..
Lowering the car 3 to 4" wasn't literal to the car, it was meant in terms of widening the scope of adjustment the modifications will offer me, rather than being hemmed in by the current limits that may affect ride height (too high) or bodywork design freedoms.
If I lowered the car a whole 4", you would likely be scraping over speed bumps :-)
ughhh, didn't work out as planned, almost, but the cages are different, either too large, or too small. I however figured another way that will likely work, into it tomorrow.
The hassle is I am trying to use 'off the shelf' parts, and simply trying to match them up to each other when they are from different vehicles. Yes, it's worth the hassle in the long run.
The hassle is I am trying to use 'off the shelf' parts, and simply trying to match them up to each other when they are from different vehicles. Yes, it's worth the hassle in the long run.
looking forward to seeing what you've come up with
understood .... what I should have said was being able to adjust the car by 3 or 4" pretty well sums it up
Things went good today, and I had a few good win as well!
I managed to sort out the new steering knuckles that required different lower ball joints that fitted into the same 2 holes in the lower control arm that was my first win.
The new steering knuckles required nothing but for the ball joint hole to be enlarged (clamp type, not taper), that was easy enough.
As I predicted, there is some 4" difference now for me to play with the car's ride height, as you can see by the red line comparison. Note if the hubs are higher (left) then the car is lower. That was my second win.
I believe I will be able to tuck the struts further into the bodywork with this new setup, there's a 3rd win. They will not be mounted at the same place as in the picture.
But the BIG WIN, is these new hubs are about 25 mm wider at the wheel flange, that means without doing a thing, I have just increased the front track (the distance between the centers of the front wheels) a further 50mm/2", that's great!
I think I will now have closer to 1600mm/63" wide track now, rather than the 1550mm I estimated. A wider track is more stability, though I consider the Elio at 1700 as being too wide, you also have to drive the car around car parks, cities and other tight spaces with convenience.
There's still a bit involved now to make up more new strut mounts, but it's not exceptionally difficult.
I also tacked on a CV inner end to the left CV inner joint/shaft to extend it to test lengths.
I managed to sort out the new steering knuckles that required different lower ball joints that fitted into the same 2 holes in the lower control arm that was my first win.
The new steering knuckles required nothing but for the ball joint hole to be enlarged (clamp type, not taper), that was easy enough.
As I predicted, there is some 4" difference now for me to play with the car's ride height, as you can see by the red line comparison. Note if the hubs are higher (left) then the car is lower. That was my second win.
I believe I will be able to tuck the struts further into the bodywork with this new setup, there's a 3rd win. They will not be mounted at the same place as in the picture.
But the BIG WIN, is these new hubs are about 25 mm wider at the wheel flange, that means without doing a thing, I have just increased the front track (the distance between the centers of the front wheels) a further 50mm/2", that's great!
I think I will now have closer to 1600mm/63" wide track now, rather than the 1550mm I estimated. A wider track is more stability, though I consider the Elio at 1700 as being too wide, you also have to drive the car around car parks, cities and other tight spaces with convenience.
There's still a bit involved now to make up more new strut mounts, but it's not exceptionally difficult.
I also tacked on a CV inner end to the left CV inner joint/shaft to extend it to test lengths.
good day indeed ....thanks again for being willing to explain what's going on ....