Rear Wheel Alignment?

[skygazer6033]

NSTG8R --- Toe really isn't going to cause the car to pull. The front tires push against each other and cancel each other out. I once bought a VW bug just for the engine and transmission. It had been wrecked in the front and had about a foot of toe in. I slowly drove it home (5 or 6 miles) . It didn't pull to the side. Lots of smoke if I got above 40 and the tires were shot but got it home.

 

[NSTG8R]

Torch?! Bent suspension component was one that I didn't consider. Then again, they might have just used the torch to free up some rusted nuts/bolts.

 

[Bert]

Since the alignment experts are assembled here, let me ask a question unrelated to the Elio.
What setting is not correct when my car pulls slightly to the left instead of slightly to the right?

You mention torch work as well? What kind of car? Camber has to be off a LOT, Caster less so. If your car doesn't allow for caster adjustment they might have used a torch to "slot" the top of the tower where the strut bolts on. Camber is usually adjusted where the strut bolts onto the spindle assembly. Tire pressure certainly can do it. So can the tire if a belt twists or has a seperation. frame or unibody damage can certainly cause issues, changing your alignment settings in a disasterous fashion!
If it's front wheel drive, motor and transmission mounts can go soft, or break, causing torque steer.
As has been mentioned, take it to someone you trust to get it checked. I looked as closely as I can from here, but just don't "see" the problem yet.
Sometimes, even the internet can't fix things... Who knew?

 

[MajorXx]

Another possibility is a defective tire, You may find a "lump" on the sidewall of the tire. Swap a bad tire from one side to the other it will now pull in the opposite direction.

 

[Jambe]

Then again, they might have just used the torch to free up some rusted nuts/bolts.

I'm thinking that's what it was. This is a 2001 Sentra. I got the alignment because I had just purchased four new tires at Sam's Club.

Bert, I have tried accelerating to see if it pulls more and it doesn't. Slope of the lane does make a big difference.

MajorXx, I had a car once that, by switching front tires, the drift changed for the better.

 

[Snick]

I doubt that any rear adjustment unless there is a wreck.

The Elio won't likely need rear alignment similar to a pickup usually doesn't require one.

Or a motorcycle. Is this really needed in normal usage?

 

[Bert]

Sorry, I work graveyards now and had stayed up to watch the Broncos.
It sounds like your mounts are fine then. While it's still possible you could have loose/worn suspension parts, I'm thinking it's in the alignment itself. One thought, you mention the crown of the road effects it a lot, it could be toed out too far, though normally the vehicle would drive more irratically, sort of darting in both directions, depending on road uneveness.
You really do need someone who can go hands on with it.

 

[NSTG8R]

Or a motorcycle. Is this really needed in normal usage?

Okay, my only motorcycle experience is with dirt bikes...always in dirt, always halfway into the pipe shooting a rooster tail...had to give it up. Better at wrecking than riding. Now granted, the back wheel on the Elio would have to be waaay out of alignment for the rear end to turn out on you, but in my minds eye, the rear wheel will want to spin parallel to the direction it's traveling, not scrub along the road wearing the tire out. So if the rear is not dead straight in relation to the front wheels, you'd have to steer with the front wheels the same amount as the discrepancy in the rear wheel alignment to travel straight down the road (crabbing, or "dog-tracking" as someone said earlier). Probably blowing this way out of proportion. Initially, just curious if there was a means of aligning the rear 'if needed'.

 

[Bert]

There is still a place to put a shim, if needed, to correct toe and camber. The 4 bolt mount from the swing arm to the wheel hub.

 

[AriLea]

Tapered roller bearings would be good. Maybe throw a grease zerk on each side to keep everything moving smoothly. Didn't think about tapered shims on the hub carrier. That could work, and be very inexpensive. Good thinking skygazer!

What ever a heavy weight motorcycle gets, seems like it will work in this case.