Elio Accessories

[Ty]

Yep! Like my old VW Bug. It'd probably smooth out the airflow going through the Elio at highway speeds somewhat also. Kind of like popping open the rear window on my truck [Note: Make sure you don't have a load of manure when doing that.]

Hey, keep politics out of this!

 

[Indiana Dave]

So if they have a factory delivery, will your options be installed then or will you get the base Eiio?
Then take it to the marshaling center to have the options installed.
Also after any options you have installed will you get to keep the original factory version?
Example: Leather seats option for factory version.

 

[HonestTex]

The Shreveport plant will be a marshalling center. The only one for a while...

 

[Ty]

So if they have a factory delivery, will your options be installed then or will you get the base Eiio?
Then take it to the marshaling center to have the options installed.
Also after any options you have installed will you get to keep the original factory version?
Example: Leather seats option for factory version.

The Elios will come off the factory assembly line and go to the marshaling part of the plant. The Shreveport plant will have a marshaling center on site for installing options. It makes sense to NOT put the marshaling operations on the actual production line as that would create issues with line validation and would not let them ramp up very well. Just think of when they get actual marshaling centers set up. You wouldn't want a case were some accessories were installed on the line but other vehicles weren't done that way. Sure, for the first year probably, they'll always know what accessories go on which cars but eventually, they'll be filling orders from Elio stores.

 

[Jeff Porter]

So if they have a factory delivery, will your options be installed then or will you get the base Eiio?
Then take it to the marshaling center to have the options installed.
Also after any options you have installed will you get to keep the original factory version?
Example: Leather seats option for factory version.

To add to the above answers Dave, your options will be installed at the plant in Shreveport, as far as we know.

As far as getting to keep the original factory version, I did see something somewhere on this forum about EM (or an EM tour employee) said that if you chose the retro fenders, you'd get to keep the original fenders too. That's the only options I've heard of such a thing. But again, we are still months and months away from this, and things could change.

 

[Indiana Dave]

Thanks for all the quick replies. Good information!

 

[Lil4X]

I believe the pop-out windows are a must if you live in a tropical climate. We've had them on our minivans and they work very well to extract heat quickly after being parked in the sun . . . and provide air flow should the AC fail. I'd want to investigate a means of operating them from the front seat though, as it would be handy to close them when you run into a rain shower.

There are two ways of doing this: 1: a small electrically powered strut that will open and close the windows, or 2: a much simpler (cheaper?) push-pull cable found on older Chrysler minivans that were operated by levers on the back of the front row console.

As to window tints, you are only going to have four windows that need attention - and that will keep the cost down. Most states require no more than 35% tint on side and rear windows (none on the windshield), and that's adequate to keep the solar heat load in check.

Now, on that subject, I'd like to see what it would cost to line the cabin, firewall, rear wheel bulkhead, roof and floor, in Dynamat to exclude both sound and heat from the interior. I had that done to an old van and the effect was amazing! No, the result didn't compete with the Lexus' tomb-like silence, but it did a good job of silencing the "boominess" of the van's interior while insulating that big slab of a roof from summer's heat.

 

[Coss]

I believe the pop-out windows are a must if you live in a tropical climate. We've had them on our minivans and they work very well to extract heat quickly after being parked in the sun . . . and provide air flow should the AC fail. I'd want to investigate a means of operating them from the front seat though, as it would be handy to close them when you run into a rain shower.

There are two ways of doing this: 1: a small electrically powered strut that will open and close the windows, or 2: a much simpler (cheaper?) push-pull cable found on older Chrysler minivans that were operated by levers on the back of the front row console.

As to window tints, you are only going to have four windows that need attention - and that will keep the cost down. Most states require no more than 35% tint on side and rear windows (none on the windshield), and that's adequate to keep the solar heat load in check.

Now, on that subject, I'd like to see what it would cost to line the cabin, firewall, rear wheel bulkhead, roof and floor, in Dynamat to exclude both sound and heat from the interior. I had that done to an old van and the effect was amazing! No, the result didn't compete with the Lexus' tomb-like silence, but it did a good job of silencing the "boominess" of the van's interior while insulating that big slab of a roof from summer's heat.

Welllllll kind of all correct; couple of points I have to disagree with.

Window tint; Front windshield; you can tint the top 6" and that's it; the exception is a show car that will be a trailer queen and not operated on the street.
Front side windows 35% is correct, even though some people push it a bit; and I have seen those people pulled over pealing the tint off their windows with the cop supervising.
Rear windows; when I tell you, you'll probably go "oh yeah, that right"; any window behind the driver can be as low as 5%; the factory tint on SUV's, some pickups; and wagons like the Dodge Magnum, and the Caddy CT5 come from the factory at 18% ( <-- that's your queue) so you can even tint those darker or if your car didn't come from the factory with tint, you can have it put on as dark as you want.

Dynamat is expensive; but it does do what you said. Being "budget conscience" (aka cheap) you can use any of the following; most of it is as good, or better than Dynamat and 1/2 the price. With Dynamat, you're buying the name and the advertising.
(Number in front is my rating scale)

#1 GTmat
http://www.gtmat.com/vs-dynamat.html

#2 FatMat
http://www.fatmat.com/

#4 Peel & Seal
(Cheap stuff)
http://www.scroungers.net/t475-cheap-alternative-to-dynamat

#3 B-Quiet
http://www.b-quiet.com/

# 2 (but you have to do quiet a bit of homework first) High Tech Stuff
https://officeprivacy.com/?gclid=CK7f_I65vM0CFYNsfgodlNcMsA

 

[Maurtis]

If I am just looking to dampen road noise, Peel & Seal for the trunk and floorboards. For stereo sound quality, name brand sound deadener on the speaker panels that vibrate (like doors). But since the Elio's speakers are in the dash it looks like I may only have to Dynamat under the dash, a very small area. Depends on where the extra speakers that come with the subwoofer go.

The previous owner of my Miata Peel & Sealed the trunk and floorboards already. I just got my new door speakers in today, so this weekend I am installing those and Dynamatting

 

[Coss]

If I am just looking to dampen road noise, Peel & Seal for the trunk and floorboards. For stereo sound quality, name brand sound deadener on the speaker panels that vibrate (like doors). But since the Elio's speakers are in the dash it looks like I may only have to Dynamat under the dash, a very small area. Depends on where the extra speakers that come with the subwoofer go.

The previous owner of my Miata Peel & Sealed the trunk and floorboards already. I just got my new door speakers in today, so this weekend I am installing those and Dynamatting

That's why I put GTmat as my #1 it is actually better (from past experience) I'll probably use the 110 stuff on the firewall, and the 80 on the floor, and over the rear wheel and make judgement what more I need and where.
I used Dynamat in my S10 and it was expensive to do the cab.